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We inherited my in-laws bedroom furniture when we bought our first home 7 years ago. It’s a nice sturdy thirty-year-old armoire. It got pretty beat up in our move down to Florida so I finally forced myself to refinish it. In the spirit of embracing more color like other Floridians I went with a turquoise color from Benjamin Moore. I love, love, love how it turned out! It ended up being way easier than I thought it would be and seriously looks so good!
Before and After Here is an easy step by step tutorial on how to refinish a dresser using an antique glaze finish.
Step 1: Sanding and Cleaning No need to sand down the entire thing, and scrape off the finish, just sand down any damaged parts and smooth them out. If you have any really deep gashes you might want to consider using Elmer’s Wood Filler to even things out. Dust and clean your dresser really well. You don’t want dust or dirt on the dresser when you start painting.
Step 2: Priming I recommend Zinsser Oil Based Primer. They also have it in a spray can. Use a good high quality angled brush for this. Always use two coats of primer. Sand in between coats of primer to remove any drips.
Step 3: Painting Once your primer is completely dry you can start painting. Two thin coats is always better than one thick gloppy coat. I like to mix floetrol to the latex paint. The floetrol conditions the wood and also slows down the drying time so there are less visible brush strokes.
Step 4: Antiquing Coat I would wait at least 24hrs before starting the antiquing coat so that your paint really has time to cure. Antiquing is actually really easy, especially if you use Valspar Antiquing Glaze. This glaze is already tinted so there is no mixing. I should tell you that you can only buy it at Lowes.
You pretty much paint a thick layer of glaze with a foam brush, then wipe it off with a lint free microfiber cloth. Some of the glaze residue is left behind in the cracks and crevices giving the furniture an antique look. Some people use a wet cloth if you want the antiquing to be more subtle. I wanted the antiquing to stand out more with the turquoise paint so I used a dry rag. Here is a great video that shows you step by step how to apply the antiquing glaze.
Step 5: Poly coat You really want to use a water-based poly for this. I like Minwax Polycrylic in the satin finish. Three coats is best, but do not do more than 2 coats in the same 24hrs. Use a fine smoothing sand paper in between coats to smooth and remove any drips.
Step 6: Waiting and adding hardware. Wait at least 24hrs before putting your furniture to normal use. I spray painted my hardware with silver metallic spray paint. It’s very inexpensive and easy. I also used the antiquing glaze on the hardware. Here is a close up of the handles. You can see the difference the antiquing glaze makes (the right side has not been “antiqued” yet).
Looks great and added some extra color to the room! Love it! Here is a quick look at the supplies you need for this project: Sandpaper (to sand damaged spots and between coats) Oil based primer (I recommend Zinsser Latex paint in the color of your choice Floetrol (Found in painting section of hardware store) Valspar Antiquing Glaze Microfiber lint free cloth (for antiquing coat) Metallic spray poly coating (I like Minwax Polycrylic in the satin finish) 3 angled paint brushes (one for priming, one for latex, and one for poly coat) 1 sponge brush (for the antiquing coat)